Aphrodisiacs. The word alone conjures up images of strange, exotic
images meant to wield power over unsuspecting souls. Throughout history, lovers
have depended on love potions enhanced with charms of enchantment for
those hearts stubborn to Cupid's arrow. Sometimes that meant a secret
ingredient. Slipped into a goblet of wine; other times an elaborate concoction
gulped down for stamina.
The qualifying factors for aphrodisiacs were
relatively simple: the rarer the ingredients, the more likely it held aphrodisiacal
qualities. Coincidentally, many foods long considered aphrodisiacs are
low in fat and high in vitamins and minerals. A diet heavy in these foods,
then, yields a healthy body with energy and blood flow, and nutrients needed
for a peak sexual experience. So, maybe there are scientific reasons for all
this, but explanation or not, anyone who has fed a lover a grape, knows
aphrodisiacs exist. Anyone who has served an elaborate candle lit meal, painstakingly prepared with love, knows the potential food has over our
emotions.
What types of food are aphrodisiacs?
Artichokes...Asparagus...Avocado...Basil...Black
Beans...Chocolate...Chilies...Coffee...Figs...Grapes...Honey...Oysters
Pine
nuts...Rosemary...Strawberries...Okay, we¹ve heard this before. But what is the
historical significance to these foods?
Some aphrodisiacs have more sensual powers than others. What follows are
short historical backgrounds on some very famous aphrodisiacs, and
recipes from two very hot restaurants, Rauxa in Union Square, Somerville and
LeBocage in Watertown. In Boston Mass. USA These recipes will help create a Valentines Day
(or any other special occasion that calls for a little love) menu that will
not be soon forgotten
Chocolate:
The potency of chocolate was first discovered by the Mayan and Aztec
Indians in their celebration of the harvest of the cocoa bean with festivals of
orgies. Montezuma, the Aztec ruler supposedly drank 50 cups of chocolate
each day to satisfy his harem of 600 women. Casanova adored chocolate,
and so do we. Sales in the 1990¹s average 600,000 tons of cocoa
consumed each year. Chocolate has sparked the attention of scientists as well. This
decadent candy contains phenyl ethylamine (PEA) which is the very same chemical that flows through the vein of someone who is in love. Why
tamper with this ancient love potion? Serve it as LeBocage does -
Chocolate Fondue with fresh fruits for two. You
won't be sorry.
Figs:
A small, pear-shaped delicacy, a ripe fig tastes sweeter than any dried
one, a fresh plump fig smells better than any syrupy canned version. A knife
slices through it like butter, the edible seeds are endless through eachlayer filed with succulent flavor. Figs date back to Cleopatra,
Dionysian
orgies, and the Roman Saturnalia. This innocent natural sensuality
can work wonders prepared various ways. For instance, Figs with Marsala and Creme
Fraiche from LeBocage, (see attached recipe) Duck with Figs, Salad of
Frisee and Watercress with Poached Figs, or Foie Gras and Caramelized Apple
Sandwich with poached Figs from Rauxa (see attached recipes).
Oysters:
The greatest of all aphrodisiacs, oysters symbolize vitality and passion
for
all those who indulge. Since the time of the Roman Empire oysters have
enjoyed a randy reputation, which has only increased over time. What is
it
about oysters? Casanova is said to have been a firm believer in oysters,
eating 50 raw ones every morning in the bath with the lady he fancied at
that moment. Oysters have unleashed their powers of seduction on
unwitting prey and restores life to lagging libidos. Why do oysters have
such an effect on people? Oysters are loaded with zinc, a key ingredient to
testosterone production, and therefore sexual performance for both
genders. You could serve them on the half shell, or try something creative such
as Rauxa¹s Oyster Plant Pancakes with Fried Oysters and Garlicky Oyster
Mushrooms. (See attached recipe)
Pine nuts:
Pine nuts, also called Pignolis, come from the inside the cones of the
pine trees. Galen, a 2nd century doctor, prescribed them to his patients for
their reported powers. Today, people hail the pine nut as the kernel of love. Try it out on your love with Postre de Music, a heavenly dessert
from Tonie Rapa of Rauxa (see attached recipe) or Arugula Pesto with Pinenuts
from LeBocage (see attached recipe).
Rosemary:
The scent of rosemary fills a room, and entices the sense of smell.
Medieval women scented bath water with rosemary to allure men.
Apparently, rosemary plays on humans scent memory the strongest tie to
emotional experiences. If executed properly, a Pavlovian call to love might
occur from simply a whiff of this potent herb.
Honey:
From the Kama Sutra to the Perfumed Garden to the Bible, honey
has been connected with love, sex and sensuality since the beginning of
time. Hippocrates prescribed honey for sexual vigor. In India, tradition
states that an offering of honey be presented to the bridegroom and hide out in
seclusion drinking the honey potion until the first new moon of their
marriage. Attila the Hun drank himself to death with honey on his
honeymoon. The very word conjures up images of the dripping, sticky substance, of
honeybees, and all things sweet. A sure win concoction of rosemary
and honey is sure to please you partner on this Valentine¹s Day or any day
you want to get romantic. Try LeBocage¹s Grilled Anjou Pears with French
Feta Cheese and a Rosemary, Honey and Peppercorn Glaze for your desired
effect. (See attached recipe)
Anyone can create this excitement through food. All is takes is the
right
ingredients and an active imagination. For more edible love potions,
consult Intercourses - an Aphrodisiac Cookbook by Martha Hopkins and Randall
Lockridge.
Chocolate
Fondue
with
Fresh Fruits for Two
Edward and Susanna Tolini Executive Chefs, Le
Bocage
Serves 2
Ingredients:
1 cup Heavy Cream
1 cup Bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tsp. Grand Marnier
Method:
In a heavy duty sauce pan, bring the heavy crème to a boil. Remove from
the
stove and stir in the chocolate until completely incorporated. Add the
Grand
Marnier
Serve in a fondue pot with assorted fruits cut into bite sized pieces.
Fruits can include, but are not limited to:
Kiwi, peeled and sliced
Strawberries
Raspberries
Bananas, cut into 1/2² slices
Pineapple
Dried Apricots
Granny Smith apples, sliced
Filet of Orange
Figs
with Marsala and Crème Fraiche
Chefs Edward and Sussana Tolini
LeBocage
Serves 4
Ingredients:
8 Fresh Black Turkish Figs (cut in half)
2 Tblsp. Butter
1 Tblsp. Sugar
1/2 cup Dry Marsala
1/4 cup Crème Fraiche
Method:
Melt butter in a medium sauté pan over high heat. As butter is just
turning
brown, add figs, flesh side down in pan and sear. Sprinkle with sugar
and
caramelize lightly.
Add Marsala and simmer with the figs, about 30 seconds. Transfer the
figs to
a warm plate and reduce the Marsala by half.
Add the crème fraiche and reduce slightly.
Portion 4 fig halves per plate and spoon sauce on top.
Serve.
Duck with Figs
Jim Becker Executive Chef/Owner
Rauxa
Ingredients:
1/2 Cup Dried or Fresh Figs
1 1/2 Cups Sweet Sherry such as Pedro Ximenez
1/2 Cup Sherry Vinegar
1 2² piece stick cinnamon
1 Cup Concentrated chicken or duck stock, reduced
1 Duck, 3 1/2 pounds
3 Fresh thyme sprigs
2 Tblsp. Butter
1/4 Cup Shallots, chopped
1 tsp. Fresh Thyme. chopped
1/8 Cup Orange Juice
salt to taste
Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
Combine the dried figs, sherry, sherry vinegar and cinnamon and bring to
a
boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the figs are tender. Remove the
figs
and set aside. Discard the cinnamon stick. Set aside sherry mixture.
Prick the duck all over with the times of a fork. Place the thyme sprigs
in
the cavity. Place the duck in the preheated oven on a rack and roast for
30
minutes, basting three times with boiling water. This will help render
the
fat and crisp the skin. Lower the temperature to 400 degrees and roast
another 30 minutes. Remove the duck. When cool enough to handle, cut the
duck into serving pieces.
Saute the shallots in one tablespoon butter. When soft, add the fresh
chopped thyme, the stock and the orange juice. Bring to a boil and allow
the
sauce to reduce and thicken. Stir in the remaining butter and sat to
taste.
Add the figs to warm through.
Place the duck pieces on two plates, and pout the sauce over.
Garnish with fresh thyme sprigs.
Salad of Frisee and Watercress with Poached Figs
Executive Chef Jim Becker
Rauxa
Serves 4
2 Small heads of frisee, washed and torn in pieces
2 Bunched watercress, trimmed
8 Black mission or Calamyrna Figs, halved
1 Cup Sherry vinegar
1 Cup Cider
1/2 Cup Crumbled Cabrales cheese or other favorite Blue Cheese
1/4 Cup Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Heat the vinegar and cider and the figs and simmer until the figs are
soft.
Remove and set aside. Reduce the vinegar-cider mixture to 1/2 cup. Set
aside.
To make vinaigrette:
1/2 Cup Reduced vinegar-cider mixture
1 Tblsp. Dijon Mustard
1/2 tsp. Chopped fresh the
1 Tblsp. Minced shallots
3/4 Cup Olive Oil
Salt and pepper to taste.
Ina bowl, whisk together the vinegar-cider mixture, the mustard,
thyme and
shallots. Whisk in the oil to form an emulsion and season with salt and
pepper.
Place the frisee and watercress in a salad bowl. Add the figs and
Cabrales
cheese. Season with additional salt and pepper, if necessary. Divide
into 4
salad plates and serve.
Foie Gras and Caramelized Apple ³Sandwich² with Poached Figs
Executive Chef Jim Becker
Rauxa
Serves 6
1 Lobe Hudson Valley Foie Gras, trimmed and sliced into 12 2²
slices
2 Green Apples, such as Granny Smith
1 Tblsp. Sugar
1/2 pound Fresh or dried black or Calamyrna figs, halved
1 bottle Pedro Ximenez Sherry (Lustau is a good brand)
2 Cups Sherry vinegar
4 Cups Apple cider
1 Large head Frisee, torn in pieces
1 Belgian Endive, sliced on the bias, into thin strips
3 Tblsp. Olive oil
In a stainless steel pot, combine the figs. Pedro Ximenex Sherry, the
sherry
vinegar, and the apple cider. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and
simmer
slowly, until the mixture is reduced to 1 1/2 cups. Season with salt to
taste.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Core the apples and slice into thick 1/1/2 inch rounds. Sugar the tops
of
the apples and roast until golden, but still holding their shape, about
10
minutes. Remove and keep warm.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the frisee and endive and
cook
until just wilted. Keep warm.
Salt and pepper the foie gras. In a large, very hot skillet, sear the
foie
gras, bring careful not to melt it, about 30 seconds each side.
On six plates, place a mound of the frisee- endive mixture, then 1 slice
apple. Top with a slice of foie gras, then the other apple slice.
Scatter
the figs around the plate and spoon the reduction sauce over the ³sandwich.²
Serve and enjoy.
Oyster Plant Pancakes with Fried Oysters and Garlicky Oyster
Mushrooms
Executive Chef/Owner Jim Becker
Rauxa
Ingredients:
4 lbs. Salsify (also known as oyster plant because of its moist,
slippery
texture)
1 tsp. Minced garlic
1 tsp. Minced shallot
1/2 cup Minced red onion
2 cups A.P. flour
1/2 cup unseasoned bread crumbs
1 tsp. Fresh thyme, chopped
1 cup Milk
1 cup Light cream
10 Tblsp. Clarified butter
24 Freshly shucked oysters
1 cup Semolina
1 lb. Trimmed oyster mushrooms, roughly chopped
3 Tblsp. Olive oil
2 Tblsp. Minced garlic
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Juice of 1 lemon
Oil for deep frying
salt and pepper to taste
To make the pancakes, peel the salsify and place in water to cover with
the
lemon juice. When ready to make the pancakes, grate the salsify into a
large
bowl and fold in the onions, garlic, shallots, flour, bread crumbs,
thyme,
milk and light cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The batter
will
be quite thick.
Heat 2 Tblsp clarified butter in a large skillet. When hot, drop the
batter
in by spoonfuls, so that when flattened, it forms a 3² pancake.Remove
when
golden on both sides, Use the remaining butter and batter to form a
total of
12 pancakes. Keep warm.
Heat 3 Tblsp. olive oil in a separate skillet. When hot, add the
mushrooms,
cooking in batches if necessary. Let the mushrooms sear, without
stirring
for about 30 seconds. Add the garlic, parsley, and salt and pepper to
taste.
Shake the pan to finish cooking the mushrooms. Remove and keep warm.
Have the oil for deep frying at 360 degrees. Dredge the oysters in the
semolinas, and carefully slide into the hot oil. Stand back, as the
oysters
may splatter. Cook the oysters a few at a tine, until golden and crisp.
Remove ad salt lightly.
On 12 plates, place a pancake, top with 2 fried oysters, and spoon the
oyster mushrooms around the plate. If desired, serve with lemon wedges
and
parsley sprigs.
Postre de Music
Pastry Chef Tonie Rapa
Rauxa
Crust:
3 Tablespoons sugar
pinch salt
1/2 cup butter
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons cream
Place all dry ingredients in Cuisinart. Pulse to mix well. Pulse in 1/2
cup
chilled butter, cut into pieces. Add yolk, vanilla, and cream, just
enough
to form dough. Chill for 30 minutes.
Roll dough into 12² circle and transfer to 9² tart pan (with removable
bottom). Trim and freeze for 15 minutes. Then blind* cake and
cool. Set
aside.
Filling:
1 cup dried pears, chopped
1 cup pitted dates, chopped
1/3 cup pear nectar
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
Place ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce flame and
simmer
about 1 minute. Puree to paste and cool.
Topping
6 Tablespoons butter
6 Tablespoons packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup toasted whole almonds
1/2 cup dry roasted cashews
1/4 cup heavy cream
Cook all ingredients over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Bring to
boil
about 1 minute. Spread filling in the crust, smooth it evenly and set on
a
sheet pan. Spoon topping over the filling and bake for 20 minutes at 400
degrees.
Traditionally, this dessert is served with a good quality glass of
sherry or
fresh whipped cream.
* Blind baking is an English tern for baking a pastry shell before it is
filled. The shell is pricked all over with a fork to prevent it from
blistering and rising.
Arugula Pesto
Chefs Edward and Sussana Tolini Chefs
LeBocage
Ingredients:
1 cup Arugula leaves, washed and dried
1 Large garlic clove, chopped
1/2 cup Pinenuts, toasted
1/2 cup Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
salt
white pepper to taste
Method:
In a food processor, puree the arugula and garlic
Add the pinenuts, cheese and blend until smooth
Add oil in a steady stream. The pesto should become think like
mayonnaise.
Season to pasta with salt and pepper.
Serve over your favorite pasta.
Grilled Pears with French Feta Cheese
in a Rosemary, Honey and
Peppercorn
Glaze
Chefs Susanna and Edward Tolini
LeBocage
Ingredients :
3 Ripe Anjou Pears
3/4 lb. French Feta Cheese
1 cup Honey
1 cup Water
2 1/2 Tblsp. Raspberry Vinegar
1 Tblsp. Black peppercorn, roughly cracked
Method:
Prepare the glaze by combining the honey, water, raspberry vinegar, and
cracked peppercorn in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil and reduce by half.
Cut pears in half and remove core and stem. Slice each half into three
pieces. Lightly glaze with the peppercorn glaze. Broil until nicely
browned.
To assemble the plate:
Cut the French Feta into 12 even pieces. Fan the pears over the feat and
ladle the glaze on top.
Serve immediately.
Jaimie
Adler
Bayleaf
Communications
617
783 5589
bayleafcom@earthlink.net
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